A few months ago there was a big mercato in the luxury fashion world. After weeks of speculations, Kim Jones, who had left Louis Vuitton where he worked as a male artistic director, was hired to the same position at Dior. Virgil Abloh, to the surprise of the majority, took over the vacant position at Louis Vuitton. From those changes arose unprecedented wait and excitement. Would Kim Jones immediately push the limits of the house Dior as he did previously to Louis Vuitton? What would he bring something new,he, a precursor of the “popularization” of street silhouettes in a luxury brands? In addition to representing by his appointment, the symbol of a deep renewal in an industry that is deeply unequal in many ways, what would Virgil Abloh propose for his first collection? The parades held during the fashion week in Paris last week brought the first elements of response.
A tribute to haute couture identity in the air by Kim Jones at Dior.
With brilliance as usual the English designer has gently marked his first collection of his identity while paying tribute to the history of the prestigious fashion house. Indeed, one of the flagship silhouettes of this parade is a tailor that is reminiscent of the haute couture of women’s collections.
Kim Jones has also used many materials that are part of the DNA of the house, the iconic toile de Jouy in particular. Insuffle the novelty, expand the year customers while not losing those of the first hour, the signature of Kim Jones. The classics of the Dior men’s cloakroom classics are executed with accuracy. With the accessories he succeeds once again the bet. Indeed, while the beautiful part is made to sneakers, the designer makes a wink to the purists of the house Dior with the covers of distinctive elements such as bees who sign many accessories. How not to talk about the Grasset bag? Iconic bag, very prominent in the 90s and 2000s, becoming a male bag worn over the shoulder. Hat Monsieur!
The perfect fusion of street culture and tradition by Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton
I can not begin without mentioning this rainbow podium and the choice of models: diversity. The creator wanted to be represented as many origins as possible. He also made a map with the origins of the parents of each of the models parading that day.
A luxury in which everyone can recognize, we are far but puree that these first steps are good! I will start with the prêt-à-porter that did not particularly surprise me. A few pieces ready jacket 3D muitipoches including, it was Virgil Abloh in the text. Geometric lines to obsession, perfect proportions. I also smiled at the sight of many t-shirts thinking back to an interview with the creator in which he lamented the cuts of men’s tshirts he found too small. This quasi obsession for the right proportion is felt.
As I said to girls, in my opinion, this first collection of accessories is a highlight as well as the absence of sack at the first women’s show Marc Jacobs or more recently the collaboration with Supreme. The work of new forms, the contribution to the iconic models of the trunk, I am subjugated. This collection is exceptional.
The creator has outdone himself, the bags dress just like the clothes almost. I’m still speechless in front of this embossed leather Steamer bag, and these keepall revisited in fur with the chain strap or mirror (which is reminiscent of the famous collection of Marc Jacobs to women). Test transformed for leather goods, we now await the arrival of these pieces in store.
Remember: pensez, appliquez, modez.